In landscape, cultural lifestyle and experience, Lamu Island looks like a world away from the rest of Kenya. The island is a part of the Lamu Archipelago, which consists of several islands tucked in the India Ocean. Lamu town itself has an authentic Swahili flavour, and it has retained its cultural and traditional values. The town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of the best-preserved towns in Kenya. Lamu took me back to an era where life was slower and I could feel the past as I walked through its narrow cobblestone streets.
It’s easy to fall in love with Lamu! It’s a picture-perfect Swahili town with an old-world charm, where donkeys run the show because there is no car on the island. The elegant whitewashed buildings, the labyrinthine web of narrow alleyways, and the refreshingly lazy atmosphere – all brought my medieval imagination to life.
Exploring the town made me lose track of what century I was in, it was such a magical experience for me. Lamu is as beautiful in real life as it looks in the photos I had seen before visiting, it’s truly Kenya’s best-kept secret. I totally fell in love with the island and here are the reasons why you should visit Lamu on your next holiday:
A Picture-Perfect Arrival
Getting down from the plane, I could feel the warm air caressing my skin; the atmosphere was quite different from where I was coming from. The boat ride from the airport to the town was an introduction to the island, and it’s such a beautiful experience that I will always want to relive. As we drew closer to the island, I was able to see how amazingly beautiful it is – it’s perhaps the most beautiful place in the whole of Kenya. When we finally arrived at the jetty, I discovered the town has a laid-back vibe that made me feel at home.
Friendly Locals
I was impressed with the friendly nature of the people; many were welcoming me to the island. I made a lot of friends, but my favourite people were Jamil and his boss, Ali Bush. Being a solo traveller, I have always looked forward to the mysteries that await me in every destination I visit. Mr. Bush is the owner of the Bush Garden Restaurant located on the island’s seafront promenade. He’s such a jovial and friendly person, and he can help you out with anything you need. If you also want to hear the small town gossips, the stories of Lamu and its people, he is your go-to. I listened with interest when he told me one of the most beautiful stories I have ever heard in my life. However, his quaint thatched restaurant with colourful flowers, featuring a stunning view of the harbour, is a great place to hang out.
Beautiful Accommodation
Immediately I saw Jamala guesthouse on Airbnb, I knew I was going to feel right at home on the island. My host, Baji came to pick me up at the airport, chartered a boat that took us to the island. I was impressed when we got to the guesthouse – it looked as beautiful as its photos. Located at the heart of Lamu town, Jamala Guesthouse is a beautiful white house decked with flowers, featuring spacious rooms with big beds and private bathrooms, a nice restroom area, and kitchen. The beautiful view of the town and the breath of fresh air from my window – made my stay at Jamala more refreshing and I loved every minute of it! Click here to get $20 off your first Airbnb reservation.
A Tour of Lamu Old Town
The beautiful Lamu Old Town is an otherworldly setting of narrow alleys that are surrounded by a maze of old and new whitewashed houses, shops and markets. I felt like I’ve travelled back in time as I embraced the variety of cultures including Swahili, Indian and Arabic. Jamil offered to take me around the Old Town and I was really happy since I had nothing planned.
As we explored the Old Town through the small alleys, we could hear the clatter of donkeys that were coming and we had to wait for them to pass. Most of the buildings are magnificent with intricate details, and they feature roof-top terraces, balconies and spacious verandas where the locals can enjoy fresh air and enjoy the beautiful ocean views. I listened with care as Jamil told me the history of the Old Town and its people. We explored Lamu Museum, the oldest church in the town, the oldest mosques and old forts, as well as the luxury guesthouses and hotels. When walking around the town, I allowed my eyes to wander and I found something to appreciate everywhere I looked.
Delicious Food
As a regular traveller, I find it hard to blend when it comes to food. It’s even more difficult when the food has no real pepper – I’m a true Nigerian. However, I was fortunate in Lamu; Bush Garden Restaurant offered me a great selection of food with pepper. Apart from the coffee I had in two other restaurants, Bush Garden Restaurant was the place I had all my meals, from breakfast to dinner. Even when I wanted an English breakfast, Ali made sure the chef made scrambled eggs, bacon, and sausage with toast bread for me. However, most restaurants on the island are known for their selection of fresh seafood, which are well-prepared and delicious. I had some lobsters at Bush Garden Restaurant and they were really flavoursome and yummy. When I wanted peppered fish with fried rice, which was not even on the menu, it was prepared for me and it tasted just as I wanted it to be. The food was also affordable; I paid less than $10 for every meal at the restaurant.
When it comes to drinks, don’t expect to see alcoholic drinks at the restaurant. You will be served fresh juice and soda drinks or water. Don’t forget to have a taste of the Sugarcane juice – it’s heavenly! If you are looking for an alcoholic drink, there is only one bar in the whole town, and you will find it right in the middle of the ocean. You can drink to your heart’s content in the floating bar.
Shela Island
Shela Island is located close to Lamu Island, on the south-eastern corner, and it features an unspoiled sand dune lined beach where you can indulge in some water activities. According to Jamil, Shela was just a small fishing village about three decades ago, but today, it has become a vacation spot for the holidaymakers. Even the rich and famous people have their vacation homes on the island. I even heard the Prince of Hanover (the capital city of the German state of Lower Saxon) has a vacation home on Shela Island. We took a 10-minute boat from Lamu to Shela Island at low tide for just 100 KSH. However, you can also take a 45-minute walk from Lamu along the seafront to Shela. Most of the buildings – hotels and holiday homes feature the traditional Swahili architectural design and some modern embellishments for luxury living. I discovered there was so much beauty in intricate patterns and all the details on the buildings. You will find a variety of luxury hotels and guest houses as well as private villas on the island. We spent half of the day exploring Shela and the surrounding villages. It was definitely worth it!
Dhow Sunset Cruise
The Dhow Sunset Cruise is one of my highlights in Lamu, a great way to top off your day. This was my first time sailing and I enjoyed every bit of it! Unfortunately, I couldn’t get people to go on a Dhow Sunset Cruise with because I visited the island when most tourists had already left. I had no choice but to charter the Dhow (about $30) for an epic sunset cruise and it was worth it!
We sailed alongside the legendary landscape of the islands on the archipelago, while I just sat back and relax as I felt the cooling ocean breeze on my face. I was able to experience the breathtaking beauty of the island coast at the most romantic time of the day, although I was alone. I thought to myself, “I’m going to come back for a Dhow Sunset Cruise with my special someone when I finally meet him”. The images of Lamu from the Dhow boat seem like it was right out of a dream. The beauty of the seafront promenade made capturing it with my camera very easy! The Dhow Sunset Cruise should be every visitor’s dream when in Lamu!
Stunning Beaches on Manda Island
Manda Island showed off its multi-cultural but modern side with its wide range of luxury resorts and hotels as well as private villas owned by the rich and famous people of the world. The idyllic island is also a part of Lamu Archipelago, and it’s linked to Lamu through a ferry. It’s home to stunning beaches where you can go kick off your shoes and play in the water. For couples looking for a honeymoon destination, I’d recommend Manda Island due to its privacy, barefoot luxury, romance, and seclusion. Azure blue waters, white sand beaches, privacy, and laid-back vibe – Manda Island is just a world on its own. I loved it here, if I can afford to stay here on my next visit to the archipelago, I’ll definitely go for it!
All in all, Lamu Archipelago is known for its gorgeous beaches with unlimited sun all-through the year – so no matter when you visit, you will definitely catch some rays. Make sure you spend time at the beach until the sun goes down, you will see the most breathtaking sunsets.
I felt pretty good about Lamu Island, its people, and its culture. The island is much deeper than its showy peripheral suggests, it’s much more beautiful and I love everything about it.
Thank you Lamu, I hope we meet again soon!
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