Istanbul sits in the middle of the world, where east meets west, and is a heady mix of Byzantine churches and ancient mosques. The capital of both the Roman Empire and the Ottoman Empire in its day, it is home to baroque grand palaces and intriguing museum. Moreover, layered on top of all this history is a modern city full of rooftop bars and shopping bazaars.
If you only have five days to explore this city that sprawls across both space and time, here is what you should be doing.
Day One: Get Your Bearings
Istanbul is a huge city that can quickly leave you feeling lost. Avoid being tied to the major tourist traps by taking a day to get to know the city. One of the best ways to do this is by boat. You can join the Bosphorus Cruise, which will take you through the heart of the city, giving you a view of its most important neighbourhoods. While the boat makes several stops, continue all the way to the end of the line at Anadoluhisari. This is a delightful seaside neighbourhood that is also home to a 14th century Anatolian Fortress. This is a great area to explore before heading back to the city centre.
Continue getting to know the city in the evening by seeking out some of its best views. Head to Pierre Loti Hill, which overlooks the Green Horn. It can be reached on foot or by cable car. The café at the top of the hill has been there since the 18th century and is a great place to enjoy the sunset. Alternatively, head up Galata Tower for stunning 360-degree views of the metropolis. If you are keen on sunsets, then head there early, as there will be queues.
Day Two: Visit the Tourist Mecca
While we talk about avoiding tourist traps, Istanbul is full of must-see tourist sites that should be indulged. Wake up early and pound the pavement for a day to squeeze in as many as possible. Start by heading to Sultanahmet Square, where you will find the famous Hagia Sophia, originally a Greek Orthodox cathedral, later converted into an Ottoman mosque, and now a museum. Next go into the Blue Mosque, and then the Basilica Cistern, an eerie underground cavern that held the ancient Roman city’s water supply. Be aware that the queues for these sites are long – book your tickets in advance, or consider paying a little bit extra to skip the queues.
If you are a museum buff, dip into the Archaeology Museum and the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art, both of which are nearby. Right behind the Archaeology Museum is also the Hagia Irene, which features a stunning courtyard packed with Roman relics, and a non-descript tomb which is thought to have belonged to the Roman Emperor Constantine.
Finish the long day with rooftop drinks at the Seven Hills, or dinner at Asitane, one of the best restaurants for trying Ottoman cuisine.
Day Three: Rub Shoulders with the Locals
Once you are done with the tourist sites, get to know the local side of the city. Start by heading to Taksim Square, where you will find no shortage of great locations of breakfast or brunch (or dinner and drinks in the evening). Next explore the streets as you make your way to the Pera Museum, where you will find collections of Orientalist paintings, Anatolian weights and measures, and Kutahya tiles and ceramics. Following this casual start to the day, dive into the Spice Market, which dates back to the 1660s. Here you can take in the smells and grab a tea as you people watch. Also take the time to wander the surrounding streets for lots of interesting shops, as well as the Rustem Pasha Mosque and the New Mosque (which actually dates to the 17th century).
Later in the day head to Karaköy, which is another trendy district full of boutique shopping, casual cafes and modern art. Head into the Tophane-I Amire Culture and Art Centre, which shows works from both local and international artists. When the dinner hour hits, head to Akin Balik for amazing fresh seafood direct from the nearby fishing village. Finally, enjoy night time views of the city from the terrace of the Adahan Hotel.
Day Four: Shopping
While shopping is not to everyone’s taste, Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar is not to be missed. Set aside an entire morning, as this bazaar contains 4,000 shops distributed across 60 streets and alleys. Dating back to the 15th century, the names of the streets still reflect their original function as the market grew, so you will find yourself on carpet street, mirror street, or indeed skullcap-makers’ street. Here you will find everything from jewellery and clothes to antiques and textiles. Put your bargaining skills to work, or just brows and people watch.
When you are done and need to unwind, take the metro north to Etiler and walk down to the neighbourhood of Bebek. One of the wealthiest in the city, you will see waterfront mansions, and find restaurants to match. Explore the waterfront park, stroll the boardwalk, and then head to the main street for some fantastic seafood. Bebek Balıkçısı is always a top choice.
Day Five: Island Hopping
On your last day in the city, leave the main part of the city and make your way to some of its islands. Take a boat to Büyükada, the largest of the Princes’ Islands in the Sea of Marmara. Here you will need to rent a bike to explore, as cars are strictly not allowed! You will find Ottoman era mansions, many churches and monasteries, plus beachside bars, and great swimming in the summer.
If you are looking for something a bit more off-the-beaten-track, you might prefer the island of Burgazada, where you will find deserted beaches, old houses, and more churches! Head to Kalpazankaya restaurant for amazing sea views, especially at sunset.
For your final night in Istanbul, you will want to return to your favourite places to say goodbye. If you are undecided, think about heading to Milka, located on the roof of the Marmara Pera Hotel and widely considered the best restaurant in the city. It matches stunning views with traditional Turkish cuisine with unexpected, and delicious, modern twists.
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